ahh but i gt this 5 cm high ram sticks nd they wont fit under the coolingthing
That's why you normally buy rams without heat sinks (i never really got why the manufacturers started adding them, because unless you start to heavily overclock the rams they are pointless and more ineffective than direct air cooling).
As you have now those large ram sticks try to use the second slots of each segment. It's "okay" if the ram heat sink touches the cpu cooler fan.
Edit: In the end today it doesn't really make any difference if you run the ram in dual channel or single channel thanks to the cpu cache optimizations iirc. So if the ram just doesn't want to fit use those B1+B2 slots
DC_DarklingJoin Date: 2003-07-10Member: 18068Members, Constellation, Squad Five Blue, Squad Five Silver
Yes, you void the warranty.. although I have no idea how much they would care in reality.
Its why you usually measure before you put stuff in. (and another reason I dislike the big ass air coolers.)
As ghoul said, in terms of cooling efficiency I would not worry with cutting the heat sinks. If your case has good airflow, its not a issue.
Aw come on mate, dual or single channel does matter in terms of possible speed. (although I see your point, that its most likely not the bottleneck in the system).
tnx, i think i got everything working. now need new-style monitor cable for install.
Question:
i am insecure about the coolingpaste/cooler/pcu setup i did (1st time and all). How can i make sure i did it correctly? monitor temperature or so?
tnx, i think i got everything working. now need new-style monitor cable for install.
Question:
i am insecure about the coolingpaste/cooler/pcu setup i did (1st time and all). How can i make sure i did it correctly? monitor temperature or so?
The cpu has a internal shutdown switch in case it gets too hot, so you shouldn't be able to harm any hardware due to a wrong setup these days as long as you don't use any weird parts.
To stress test a CPU:
Use Core-Temp and CPU-Z to monitor the CPU while running the prime95 stress test for about a hour . Your CPU should never even hit the 80 C mark with your cooler (and the cpu max temp is even higher).
After that just play a bit ns2 while having core-temp log the CPU temp in the background. If your cooler is setup correctly the temp should stay below 60 C.
hmm shit after running for 5 min or so (4 cores say load 100% so i guess the test thing works) the temperature reaches 100C peaks.
what to do?
Are all cores equally hot?
If so check if the cpu coolers fan is plugged in correctly in the main board and that the settings are correct. The fan should accelerate when the cpu temp increases.
What's the idle temp? For me it sounds like the cooler is not sitting correctly at the cpu unit. So re-setup it (can be a bit tricky to do inside the case).
As reference you can use the temps measured in this test (they use a quiet similar setup to yours).
I personally use the "draw line" (draw a line in the middle of the cpu unit) method for thermal paste and that works out just fine .
Idle temp is about 30C on all 4 cores (28-30).
When running the test (i choose 'mix' or sumthing) all would be about the same high temp, running up to 90-100C.
Idle temp is about 30C on all 4 cores (28-30).
When running the test (i choose 'mix' or sumthing) all would be about the same high temp, running up to 90-100C.
Sounds like you applied too much thermal paste if the fan is working correctly.
Yes the basic function of thermal paste is too make sure there is no air between the CPU unit and the cooler body. As darkling mentioned in that case "less is more", because if you apply too much thermal paste (specially normal quality ones) you just add another layer of material the heat has to pass.
At low temps that situation might be fine, but as the temp increases that extra layer becomes a problem.
Fact beside : The difference between premium quality and normal quality thermal paste can be up to 5 °C in the end.
That said for now you should be able to use the PC just fine if you watch the temp as prime95 is the extreme situation test. But you should make sure to replace the thermal paste asap.
BTW: A cool tool for watching the temps while gaming is the msi afterburner (gets used for GPU OCing) overlay
Overall list to investigate cpu heat issues:
Check system temps (main board sensors) and check if all case fans work correctly and nothing blocks the air flow etc.
Check the cpu fan.
Replace thermal paste, make sure that the cpu cooler is placed correctly onto the cpu unit.
Ok. I tightened all the screws / bolts on the mount for the cooler (some where pretty lose) and i installed the fan at the back of the unit, near the case fan.
Hope this works, testing now.
Ok so results: still gets too hot (90+ ), but less fast.
What i dont understand is the fan doesnt seem to 'change gears' at all, like my old pc used to do (like mad vacuumsounds when NS2 was running).
It just keeps on blowing quietly. Is that normal?
Edit: After setting my CPU fan into a higher mode in bios (from 'normal' to 'performance' or whatever) the max temperature of the cores is in the range of 70C - 74C . Thats after about 10 min of testing.
Yay !
Ok. I tightened all the screws / bolts on the mount for the cooler (some where pretty lose) and i installed the fan at the back of the unit, near the case fan.
Hope this works, testing now.
Ok so results: still gets too hot (90+ ), but less fast.
What i dont understand is the fan doesnt seem to 'change gears' at all, like my old pc used to do (like mad vacuumsounds when NS2 was running).
It just keeps on blowing quietly. Is that normal?
Edit: After setting my CPU fan into a higher mode in bios (from 'normal' to 'performance' or whatever) the max temperature of the cores is in the range of 70C - 74C . Thats after about 10 min of testing.
Yay !
Yay, ok so the CPU fan settings were off.
Good fans don't get really louder while going from idle to full burst mode (e.g. your cpu cooler fan goes from 14,5 to 17,4 db). That's why they cost about 20 € each
DC_DarklingJoin Date: 2003-07-10Member: 18068Members, Constellation, Squad Five Blue, Squad Five Silver
Exactly like Ghoul said. Good silent strong fans are easy 20 euro each. And yup, bios settings can matter.
thermal paste is a more... interesting and complicated subject then you may think.
Depending on the kind of thermal paste, its better to spread it in a even very thin layer, or to only put on a small pee sided blob, and let pressure handle the spread.
But on max temps of 70 that sounds just fine, so id not worry about it.
DC_DarklingJoin Date: 2003-07-10Member: 18068Members, Constellation, Squad Five Blue, Squad Five Silver
omg....no...cable...management..... /cries.
Still not bad for a first time.
You may want to work away the cables at a later date, make it block airflow less.
Also remember that if you have a fan to push air at the front and a fan to pull air at the back of your cooling block, it works better. (I only see the black pull fan.)
dePARAJoin Date: 2011-04-29Member: 96321Members, Squad Five Blue
edited May 2015
Congrats for your 1st self build PC.
I have one more tip for you:
Your CPU fan is in the wrong position.
Why?
Fresh air come from the bottom front and the CPU cooler should transport this cold air through the cooler.
so the warm air can leave the case behind.
Your fan sits behind the cooler so there cant be a real airflow through the radiator.
Also every fan has a little arrow wich indicates the airflow direction.
If you setup the fan to blew over the heatsink this would be counterproductive cause you produce a heat accumulation.
And i think your CPU cooler was not a good choice. Its to huge and the cooling performance is not really the best.
I would always recommend Cooler from Noctua (Noctua NH-U12S) if you have the money and you cant do anything wrong with the Scyth Mugen.
Small tip for heatpaste usage:
You only need a small pea-size dot in the middle of the cpu. Then install the cooler.
Through the contact pressure the paste spread by itself.
The rest of the PC is well choosen:
Very good case, good and cheap Asus board, gtx960, a "K" cpu (wich is important).
The PSU was not a so good choice, but thats only a matter of taste i think
I have one more tip for you:
Your CPU fan is in the wrong position.
Why?
Fresh air come from the bottom front and the CPU cooler should transport this cold air through the cooler.
so the warm air can leave the case behind.
Your fan sits behind the cooler so there cant be a real airflow through the radiator.
Also every fan has a little arrow wich indicates the airflow direction.
If you setup the fan to blew over the radiator this would be counterproductive cause you produce a heat accumulation.
And i think your CPU cooler was not a good choice. Its to huge and the cooling performance is not really the best.
I would always recommend Cooler from Noctua (Noctua NH-U12S) if you have the money and you cant do anything wrong with the Scyth Mugen.
That fan cooler is pulling so it's not wrong. It's not optimal that way but as he said before otherwise his ram modules wouldn't fit. So it's okay and shouldn't be a critical issue as that fan is powerful enough.
About the cooler: Following latest test reviews the bequiet coolers (of the current generation) are due to their massive cooler bodies and fans more powerful and quieter than even the Noctua NH-D15 so his choice was not that bad ...
dePARAJoin Date: 2011-04-29Member: 96321Members, Squad Five Blue
edited May 2015
Well, then we read different reviews.
Noctua doesnt made the best coolers only cause theyr cooling performance.
Its there overall package (one of the best heat pastes included, upgrades for new sockets for free, ultra silent fans made of highest quality)
And if you cant mount the cooler as intended and you have to break the ram coolers, this cant be a good choice
Noctua doesnt made the best coolers only cause theyr cooling performance.
Its there overall package (one of the best heat pastes included, upgrades for new sockets for free, ultra silent fans made of highest quality)
And if you cant mount the cooler as intended and you have to break the ram coolers, this cant be a good choice
I'm always interested in other reviews so feel free to link them. I already posted one of mine here before.
fair point about the ram / cooling combo @dePARA The ram was about the only point i didnt bothered getting advice on before ordering (just ram right?).
Leason learned
was thinking about installing the fan on the other side (reversed / blowing) instead of the double sucking setup i got now.. Might do it anyway for a test when i got time.
Oh btw its possible to get the fan on the other side, it just hoovers a bit above the ram (former fins).
dePARAJoin Date: 2011-04-29Member: 96321Members, Squad Five Blue
The 2 fans close to each other like in your setup didnt make any sense. (Its ok as an "workaround" for your ram issues but far away from good)
You want a constant airflow in the case, and a fan on the right side of the cooler (mode in the middle) would help much more to transport the warm air out of the case, Also the cpu had active air cooling.
And no, i dont post any reviews here ghoul. Im sure you can use google also and this should not transform into a battle of who has the better arguments.
You should know that, you are a moderator.
Comments
That's why you normally buy rams without heat sinks (i never really got why the manufacturers started adding them, because unless you start to heavily overclock the rams they are pointless and more ineffective than direct air cooling).
As you have now those large ram sticks try to use the second slots of each segment. It's "okay" if the ram heat sink touches the cpu cooler fan.
Edit: In the end today it doesn't really make any difference if you run the ram in dual channel or single channel thanks to the cpu cache optimizations iirc. So if the ram just doesn't want to fit use those B1+B2 slots
Its why you usually measure before you put stuff in. (and another reason I dislike the big ass air coolers.)
As ghoul said, in terms of cooling efficiency I would not worry with cutting the heat sinks. If your case has good airflow, its not a issue.
Aw come on mate, dual or single channel does matter in terms of possible speed. (although I see your point, that its most likely not the bottleneck in the system).
Should be the EPS 12V 8-Pin (look into the PSU manual)- it's at your motherboard behind the PS/2 ports.
Useful Video:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/Z97-P/E9385_Z97-P.pdf?_ga=1.50462186.2111939573.1432329860
Question:
i am insecure about the coolingpaste/cooler/pcu setup i did (1st time and all). How can i make sure i did it correctly? monitor temperature or so?
The cpu has a internal shutdown switch in case it gets too hot, so you shouldn't be able to harm any hardware due to a wrong setup these days as long as you don't use any weird parts.
To stress test a CPU:
what to do?
Are all cores equally hot?
If so check if the cpu coolers fan is plugged in correctly in the main board and that the settings are correct. The fan should accelerate when the cpu temp increases.
What's the idle temp? For me it sounds like the cooler is not sitting correctly at the cpu unit. So re-setup it (can be a bit tricky to do inside the case).
As reference you can use the temps measured in this test (they use a quiet similar setup to yours).
I personally use the "draw line" (draw a line in the middle of the cpu unit) method for thermal paste and that works out just fine
When running the test (i choose 'mix' or sumthing) all would be about the same high temp, running up to 90-100C.
Sounds like you applied too much thermal paste if the fan is working correctly.
Yes the basic function of thermal paste is too make sure there is no air between the CPU unit and the cooler body. As darkling mentioned in that case "less is more", because if you apply too much thermal paste (specially normal quality ones) you just add another layer of material the heat has to pass.
At low temps that situation might be fine, but as the temp increases that extra layer becomes a problem.
Fact beside : The difference between premium quality and normal quality thermal paste can be up to 5 °C in the end.
That said for now you should be able to use the PC just fine if you watch the temp as prime95 is the extreme situation test. But you should make sure to replace the thermal paste asap.
BTW: A cool tool for watching the temps while gaming is the msi afterburner (gets used for GPU OCing) overlay
Overall list to investigate cpu heat issues:
Hope this works, testing now.
Ok so results: still gets too hot (90+ ), but less fast.
What i dont understand is the fan doesnt seem to 'change gears' at all, like my old pc used to do (like mad vacuumsounds when NS2 was running).
It just keeps on blowing quietly. Is that normal?
Edit: After setting my CPU fan into a higher mode in bios (from 'normal' to 'performance' or whatever) the max temperature of the cores is in the range of 70C - 74C . Thats after about 10 min of testing.
Yay !
Yay, ok so the CPU fan settings were off.
Good fans don't get really louder while going from idle to full burst mode (e.g. your cpu cooler fan goes from 14,5 to 17,4 db). That's why they cost about 20 € each
thermal paste is a more... interesting and complicated subject then you may think.
Depending on the kind of thermal paste, its better to spread it in a even very thin layer, or to only put on a small pee sided blob, and let pressure handle the spread.
But on max temps of 70 that sounds just fine, so id not worry about it.
I got a nice layer in the end.
All in all PC building was a nice experience, mixed in with a healthy amount of stress / fear for the unknown.
4 out of 5 stars: recommended.
Thanks for the advice again guys!
pic or it didnt happen:
Still not bad for a first time.
You may want to work away the cables at a later date, make it block airflow less.
Also remember that if you have a fan to push air at the front and a fan to pull air at the back of your cooling block, it works better. (I only see the black pull fan.)
I think a piece of me just died today, always opt for Low Profile whenever you can
I have one more tip for you:
Your CPU fan is in the wrong position.
Why?
Fresh air come from the bottom front and the CPU cooler should transport this cold air through the cooler.
so the warm air can leave the case behind.
Your fan sits behind the cooler so there cant be a real airflow through the radiator.
Also every fan has a little arrow wich indicates the airflow direction.
If you setup the fan to blew over the heatsink this would be counterproductive cause you produce a heat accumulation.
And i think your CPU cooler was not a good choice. Its to huge and the cooling performance is not really the best.
I would always recommend Cooler from Noctua (Noctua NH-U12S) if you have the money and you cant do anything wrong with the Scyth Mugen.
Small tip for heatpaste usage:
You only need a small pea-size dot in the middle of the cpu. Then install the cooler.
Through the contact pressure the paste spread by itself.
The rest of the PC is well choosen:
Very good case, good and cheap Asus board, gtx960, a "K" cpu (wich is important).
The PSU was not a so good choice, but thats only a matter of taste i think
That fan cooler is pulling so it's not wrong. It's not optimal that way but as he said before otherwise his ram modules wouldn't fit. So it's okay and shouldn't be a critical issue as that fan is powerful enough.
About the cooler: Following latest test reviews the bequiet coolers (of the current generation) are due to their massive cooler bodies and fans more powerful and quieter than even the Noctua NH-D15 so his choice was not that bad ...
Noctua doesnt made the best coolers only cause theyr cooling performance.
Its there overall package (one of the best heat pastes included, upgrades for new sockets for free, ultra silent fans made of highest quality)
And if you cant mount the cooler as intended and you have to break the ram coolers, this cant be a good choice
I'm always interested in other reviews so feel free to link them. I already posted one of mine here before.
Leason learned
was thinking about installing the fan on the other side (reversed / blowing) instead of the double sucking setup i got now.. Might do it anyway for a test when i got time.
Oh btw its possible to get the fan on the other side, it just hoovers a bit above the ram (former fins).
You want a constant airflow in the case, and a fan on the right side of the cooler (mode in the middle) would help much more to transport the warm air out of the case, Also the cpu had active air cooling.
And no, i dont post any reviews here ghoul. Im sure you can use google also and this should not transform into a battle of who has the better arguments.
You should know that, you are a moderator.