Here's part two of the 3D Gorge post: The "making of"! :-) It turned out to be quite big, I hope you find this interesting.
The first step was to find out how to make the in-game model data usable for the 3d printer. After figuring it all out, the process is actually simple, but getting there took some time. Step two, obviously, was the printing. The third and final step was the post-processing of the raw printed model.
Software: 3ds Max 2014, Cura (3d printing software), and Blender (not needed in the final process)
...plus standard crafting tools, some shown below
NS2 -> 3DS Max
Go to "steamapps\common\Natural Selection 2\assets" in the steam folder.
Take modelsrc.zip and extract it (somewhere outside of the steam folder is best).
Install 3ds Max; the trial version is sufficient (note that it's a HUGE piece of software).
Browse through the extracted files and open the various .max files. Pick one to print. Here's what the Gorge file looks like when opened:
3DS Max -> Cura
Select "Export" and choose the "gw::OBJ-Exporter" format. The NS2 tools use the DAE/Collada format, so I tried that first, but that caused problems with the printer software. The OBJ format, on the other hand, has worked just fine so far.
In the export options, deselect "flip x/y axis".
Deselect "export materials", "create mat-library" and "texture coordinates" to remove unneeded data, and avoid "missing texture/material" warnings.
I also changed the "faces" setting to "triangles". Not sure if it makes a difference, though.
Finish the export.
Open the .obj file in Cura (the 3d printer software). It should be oriented correctly already. For the Gorge, it looks like this:
Cura -> raw print
Now that the model is loaded in Cura, it's about setting print parameters and aligning the model.
For the PLA material, I set a nozzle temperature of 210°C, which worked fine. Set "support type" to "everywhere", "platform adhesion type" to "brim", and check "enable retraction". I left the other settings on default.
Scale the model to an appropriate size. For my first test, I choose a 35mm scale to finish relatively quickly (a few hours). In my experience, the actual print time is usually higher than what is predicted by the software.
Let the software display the printing layers, including support structures, and verify them. Depending on the model, adjusting the orientation/alignment of the model gives better results. Keep in mind that the 3d printer can not start printing above ground level, and that you need to remove the support structures later, which can be tricky if the model is thin/fragile. So for different models, it makes sense to rotate the object from its original position. This is the step that requires experience and testing; for my first attempts, I used non-NS2 models. For the Gorge, though, the default pose works fine. Here's a half-height layer view:
Export the .model file and print. :-) There's not much I can say about this - it's learning by doing. Selecting the "brim" option (see above) makes it simpler, as you get less unsuccessful runs you need to abort and restart.
Raw print -> final model
This is the raw model, straight out of the printer:
As you can see, there's quite a lot of stuff that does not belong to the actual model. Support structures on the bottom, and various leftovers on the sides. What's really nasty is the support structure under the chin... it's not easy to tell where it ends and the underside of the chin starts. The mouth is also filled in, which is somewhat visible in the second picture. What you can't see is that the gap below the third scale on the back (the small one) is filled by support material as well. So it's time for some carving.
This is after a first pass of cleaning up the model, and some of the tools used:
I cut the support structure under the chin in half to get a better feeling of the material before I started the difficult cuts. As I don't own the printer myself, I would have had to wait weeks before I could print a new model, so I had to be careful.
I had the 3d model open on the screen while I carved out the mouth. I learned much about Gorge anatomy in the process No new pictures, as the ones I took don't really show more than the one I posted above.
Basically, I did the same for the chin and belly. The support structures came off better than expected, but it still needed some post-processing. Here's the result:
And that's it!
For reference, here's the final cleaned-up model again:
So is the support material somewhat different than the actual model (thickness/strength etc) so that you can more easily remove it or did you basically end up carving everything freehand? The belly and chin in the finished piece look somewhat textured and detailed.
Also, does there exist 3d printing methods (likely much more expensive) that don't have the limitations this one does? I could swear I've seen information about 3d printing with moving parts and such.
So is the support material somewhat different than the actual model (thickness/strength etc) so that you can more easily remove it or did you basically end up carving everything freehand?
Yes, you can somewhat see this in the first picture from the bottom. The actual model has a solid hull, and the support structure consists of vertical plates. I think they did the best they could to make them easy to separate. Still, they need to stick together during printing.
The belly and chin in the finished piece look somewhat textured and detailed.
Yes, that's the unavoidable area where the support structures stick to the model. With this kind of printer technology, it can only be removed manually. I could have sanded this down to make it smoother, but decided against it as I only had that one print, and wasn't sure if the result would look better than the way it is now.
Also, does there exist 3d printing methods (likely much more expensive) that don't have the limitations this one does?
Absolutely, there are far more advanced printers out there. Multiple colors, multiple materials in one print, even metal. But they are pretty much unaffordable for private use, as you suspected. :-)
One interesting thing I read about are 3d printers with two nozzles (for two materials in one print), where one nozzle prints the normal material, and the other prints the support structures with a material that can be removed by a special liquid. So you just print, toss the model into that liquid, and in theory, you get a perfectly clean model out. That would be a rather simple upgrade to printers like the one I used. With that, you could also print complex hollow structures, like ball bearings.
I could swear I've seen information about 3d printing with moving parts and such.
Well, you can print moving parts with single-material printers already. But there are restrictions on the geometry, and you may need to do some manual cleanup. But the printers are improving rapidly.
Really cool MrFangs, glad to see someone else having fun with a 3d printer, keep up the good work
The prints are roughly sanded and painted, the skulks and fades have somehow molten in my oven, (the temperature was too high) and the paint is cracking here and there.
This is PLA as well with a .35mm nozzle on a homemade Prusa Mendel, the onos is 4 parts glued together.
I was planning to paint them but I don't think I will ever have time for this.
If anyone wants to build his own printer, I highly recommend to check RichRap blog and Johann Rocholl delta printers. It is a long run to have everything setup and be able to print something with a homemade printer but there is so much to learn from this process I would do it again without hesitation.
If you could confirm these things are paintable with model paints, [...]
According to this site, they are: "PLA prints generally work well with acrylic paints. [...] They can also be painted with cellulose spray paints, or oil paints, but acrylic paints work the best."
Really impressive, good job. How long did it take you to convert the format?
After figuring it all out, the actual conversion is fast, a few seconds only. What takes a while is the layer calculation by the printer software - the step that leads to the cut-open view I posted. On larger models, this can take some minutes, and has to be redone after each modification (scaling, alignment, ...).
Sorry to put a damper on these expectations, but as I don't own the printer myself, I can only print a few models here and there. Also, going from "personal printing for fun" to "shipping merchandise" has a *lot* of strings attached, which I don't think I'll have the time to handle right now. The best I can do is to share all insights I gain, so others don't have to start from scratch.
One option to get a print might be 3d printing services in your area, or online. I haven't used any of these, but I hear they are popping up everywhere. Even some copy shops seem to offer 3d printing now. With an online service, it might even be less work, as they will probably clean up the model for you already.
Cannon_FodderAUSBrisbane, AUJoin Date: 2013-06-23Member: 185664Members, Squad Five Blue, Squad Five Silver, Reinforced - Shadow
@glh. Til I saw the pics, I thought the marine was mounting the Gorge in a ummmm bad way. As @joshhh said, my first thoughts were "what the!!!!". I think a marine surfing on a belly sliding gorge would be awesome.
Very impressive. I'm jelly. Can't wait to see the full potential of this technology at the consumer level. If i was a small parts manufacturer I would be very worried about the next 5-10 years.
@MrFangs yes this is from 3ds, you can unhide the Biped (Bones) through the LayerManager, then arrange the bones position/orientation
Once you are happy with your pose you may have to collapse the mesh modifiers (right clic / convert to Mesh or convert to Poly is one way to do it) before exporting it to your slicer software (I use .stl format for that and slice in Slic3r). You won't be able to modify your pose once the modifiers have been collapsed so you better have a .max backup before doing this.
@Vengaboy 3d printers are not a good choice for production in series, just good for prototyping cause it is really slow, it still can be used to make molds by the way. http://www.thingiverse.com/ has tons of 3d prints with source files.
3d printers are not a good choice for production in series, just good for prototyping cause it is really slow, it still can be used to make molds by the way. http://www.thingiverse.com/ has tons of 3d prints with source files.
Yes, thingiverse is an excellent source for 3d models. It's quite amazing just to browse and see what kind of creative stuff people come up with.
Comments
The first step was to find out how to make the in-game model data usable for the 3d printer. After figuring it all out, the process is actually simple, but getting there took some time. Step two, obviously, was the printing. The third and final step was the post-processing of the raw printed model.
So here's how to do it!
The following tools were used:
NS2 -> 3DS Max
3DS Max -> Cura
Cura -> raw print
Now that the model is loaded in Cura, it's about setting print parameters and aligning the model.
Raw print -> final model
As you can see, there's quite a lot of stuff that does not belong to the actual model. Support structures on the bottom, and various leftovers on the sides. What's really nasty is the support structure under the chin... it's not easy to tell where it ends and the underside of the chin starts. The mouth is also filled in, which is somewhat visible in the second picture. What you can't see is that the gap below the third scale on the back (the small one) is filled by support material as well. So it's time for some carving.
I cut the support structure under the chin in half to get a better feeling of the material before I started the difficult cuts. As I don't own the printer myself, I would have had to wait weeks before I could print a new model, so I had to be careful.
And that's it!
For reference, here's the final cleaned-up model again:
Also, does there exist 3d printing methods (likely much more expensive) that don't have the limitations this one does? I could swear I've seen information about 3d printing with moving parts and such.
Yes, that's the unavoidable area where the support structures stick to the model. With this kind of printer technology, it can only be removed manually. I could have sanded this down to make it smoother, but decided against it as I only had that one print, and wasn't sure if the result would look better than the way it is now.
Absolutely, there are far more advanced printers out there. Multiple colors, multiple materials in one print, even metal. But they are pretty much unaffordable for private use, as you suspected. :-)
One interesting thing I read about are 3d printers with two nozzles (for two materials in one print), where one nozzle prints the normal material, and the other prints the support structures with a material that can be removed by a special liquid. So you just print, toss the model into that liquid, and in theory, you get a perfectly clean model out. That would be a rather simple upgrade to printers like the one I used. With that, you could also print complex hollow structures, like ball bearings.
Well, you can print moving parts with single-material printers already. But there are restrictions on the geometry, and you may need to do some manual cleanup. But the printers are improving rapidly.
Edit: found the link for the dissolvable support material experiment
The prints are roughly sanded and painted, the skulks and fades have somehow molten in my oven, (the temperature was too high) and the paint is cracking here and there.
This is PLA as well with a .35mm nozzle on a homemade Prusa Mendel, the onos is 4 parts glued together.
I was planning to paint them but I don't think I will ever have time for this.
Btw I can remove it if you think this is shocking material...
I stop polluting awesome MrFangs thread now.
According to this site, they are: "PLA prints generally work well with acrylic paints. [...] They can also be painted with cellulose spray paints, or oil paints, but acrylic paints work the best."
Err... I think I'll keep this one ;-) But nice try ^^
After figuring it all out, the actual conversion is fast, a few seconds only. What takes a while is the layer calculation by the printer software - the step that leads to the cut-open view I posted. On larger models, this can take some minutes, and has to be redone after each modification (scaling, alignment, ...).
Sorry to put a damper on these expectations, but as I don't own the printer myself, I can only print a few models here and there. Also, going from "personal printing for fun" to "shipping merchandise" has a *lot* of strings attached, which I don't think I'll have the time to handle right now. The best I can do is to share all insights I gain, so others don't have to start from scratch.
One option to get a print might be 3d printing services in your area, or online. I haven't used any of these, but I hear they are popping up everywhere. Even some copy shops seem to offer 3d printing now. With an online service, it might even be less work, as they will probably clean up the model for you already.
Once you are happy with your pose you may have to collapse the mesh modifiers (right clic / convert to Mesh or convert to Poly is one way to do it) before exporting it to your slicer software (I use .stl format for that and slice in Slic3r). You won't be able to modify your pose once the modifiers have been collapsed so you better have a .max backup before doing this.
@Vengaboy 3d printers are not a good choice for production in series, just good for prototyping cause it is really slow, it still can be used to make molds by the way. http://www.thingiverse.com/ has tons of 3d prints with source files.
I would buy one of those.